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Denis Urubko at the meeting in Wroclaw, October 1, 2017, photo (C) Kornelia Głowacka-Wolf / Agencja Gazeta Today returned from Pakistan, the participants of the Polish expedition to K2. This winter they found themselves in the limelight, but the events that unfolded on the mountain and at base camp, as discussed in the climbing community and beyond. On the trail of hot debate we caught up with Denis Urubko to ask about the expedition. On this mountain Denis poles is not the first time tortured luck, so we were curious not only to hear his version of events, but also to draw historical Parallels. Denis agreed to answer two questions.
Already 10 years have passed since that moment in the night from 12 to 13 March 2008 during the descent from V. of tbau killed Sergei Guryanov. When he was 23. And at that time Serge was the unquestioned sports leader Alpclub MEI, was one of the best climbers of Moscow. Time heals, but not this time. Demi Lovato was a model for many reliability, confidence and security. And what happened that day still doesn't go in, someone rolls up to the throat. Dozens of times I re-read the Protocol parsing HC and don't understand why??? Smart, funny, athletic, sociable. Perfectionism in everything — even the razor on the approaches taken) He is 23 years old was very upset that he trains a lot and do not have time to train others myself, believed that he must pass on...
From the series:" notes of a climbing doctor." Foto K. Minaichenko 1986 Spring, Tashkent. Clinical Hospital Of Ministry Of Health №2, Children's Case. Called the black phone. The doctor picked up the phone. "Resuscitator, emergency room" - the voice Mavluda, nurse triage was tired-even... Duty Dolittle began at half past three, and now it was already six in the evening, the peak of all troubles and misfortunes, when hurrying home people hurry to finish all the daily business and begin to make mistakes, and then running for help to the hospital... "there is no Worse punishment to correct the mistakes of others" thought the doctor, going to the emergency room, bypassing the Elevator, the stairs... He heard the row is already in the corridor. Zarifa shouted...
Minutes of elation, bitter disappointment, a sense of celebration and understanding that the international season is over and you can breathe, were filled yesterday at the site under the Kirov springboard. of Course, I'm exaggerating, and in the universal sense, and even for the development of sport exactly who received medals is not the most important, but for those who gathered last night to honor the leaders of the world of ice climbing and, of course, everyone who watched the broadcasts during the season, it's important! So let's call the winners and congratulate!
Denis Urubko and Simone Moro are singing in the General camp of the Russian team, Lhotse, 2001 (video from the movie Victor Kozlov, "the Russian eight-thousander") Single output Denis Urubko on the mountain caused a wide resonance of the global climbing community. We have had the opportunity to get acquainted with a critical sentiment. However, in the Polish press you can find a lot of opposite accents – these are the words of gratitude to Dennis, trying to get away from value judgments and to objectify history. Look at the situation in this perspective, through the eyes of the poles.
Frame from the movie “Twelve girls and one man”/12 Mädchen und 1 Mann (1959) Spring is late and you've already missed the hikes of the day, good old forest, songs around the campfire? To go in the snow fairy tale on your skis or snowshoes - what could be more tempting! Fresh air, active rest, frost and sun... But even the most beautiful day can ruin frozen fingers, useless tropezhka and cold tea in a thermos. All were once beginners, but basic errors will help to avoid several pre-emptive campaign of the Soviets.
Photo © Adam Ondra What do you have of the word Czech Republic? Try to answer quickly – without thinking! I got the following sequence: beer, Adam Ondra, "Superior" (Bicycle brand). It is, in fact, almost everything I know about Prague (to my shame). For climbers around the world Adam Ondra has become the hallmark of the Czech Republic. This is not surprising: he is the most famous and the most gifted climber of our time. This twenty-five year old guy is a real superhero, surprise, more movie stars who defied the laws of physics, year after year, making the opening in the climbing.
Today is my birthday! I new today was a year old, and no matter what a month ago knocked tridtsatnik. We all probably there are events that divide life into before and after, I would like to tell about my! Why? For that one prevented error – helped to avoid for some, at least, of the responsibility that had to suffer for the story. To draw conclusions and to prevent possible consequences for others, to tell how it is important not to lose faith in yourself and work on yourself, what would you want it at any cost.
Unfortunately, yesterday, the chief chronicler of the expedition, the author of the journals Rafal Fronia was seriously injured forearm on the way to camp 1 from accidentally kick a loose stone. After medical examination, it was decided to evacuate him by helicopter to Skardu as soon as the weather allows. Soon Rafal back to Poland. This series of diary describes his previous output, which is also not without incident...
From the series "Pictures from a past life". 1963. The last day of December. Tashkent. was a wet snow. No wind. Large snowflakes slowly descended in these early December twilight, covering not yet fully fallen leaves huge plane trees, lawns with green grass, on the roof of the small cafes and on the pavement of pedestrian walkways. On the tracks the snow immediately melted, but still, his favorite Tashkent Park looked fun and pre-holiday... Chimes in the tower struck six. The young doctor stood for hours under these with a small bouquet of flowers and a bag with rice, meat, carrots and wok for pilaf and waited for his least the young friend for the new God... ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Szymczak, photos Prestiztrojmiasto.pl say less About him than about four direct participants of the rescue operations on the mountain, but it is thanks to him Elizabeth Revol received in Pakistan the necessary medicines. I translated an interview with Casper Sosnowski Robert Szymczak that you will certainly be interested. It is published in the Polish edition Sport.pl.
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The intense battle for the yawning of Champions is between the teams of Saint-Petersburg-1, and Krasnoyarsk-1. The team have already completed three routes. After the first two were leading sportsmen of the cultural capital. But after a third of the route ahead in the standings came out the Siberians. Now both teams showed up on the same route – last year's first ascent 5B+ K. Tr. Abildayeva. Waiting for developments.
Last year in China, I personally did not like. Dark, dank and sad. Strange place for competition, a strange LIDODERM and strange track with a strange clues. This year getting here is hard, especially after sun in Europe. One consoling: thought it couldn't get worse. But my inner optimist asked:"and why not? It's the ice climbing world Cup!"
Don't understand. I really don't understand. How can I go on a ski trip, and in the case of weather not to go back and lay down on the snow and die? How?!? ... These emotions covered me in November, when in mass media there was information about the death from hypothermia of two people, left to walk on scaturisce skiing in one of the resorts of the Low Tatras. Then came the impulse to write about their experiences of survival. But a sincere dislike of public epistolario this impulse buried.